Jaipur Dialogues Reclaiming Gamcha: The Cloth That Unites!

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Apoorva Devanshi

Guest
India has always been known as the treasure trove for its finest textiles. One of the example of its rich finesse is – Gamcha! Once a part of our daily attire it lost its touch in the post colonial times. However, when Prime Minister Narendra Modi wore it in while addressing the public during the pandemic times. Gamcha again gained social media attention and everybody started talking about this unique attire. Within no time the weavers in Barabanki started producing it as it was in high demand!

Gamcha was worn across the country from the North-Eastern states to Bihar, Uttar Pradesh, and South India. It has played a significant role in our culture. Depending on the various designs and motifs, it goes by different names in different states, but its purpose and importance remains the same.

For instance in Manipur, Cotton “Khudei” comes in a variety of styles some are plain and others patterned. Some of these are worn on a daily basis while others are reserved for formal occasions. For adult men in Tripura, the “Rikutu Gamcha is an essential part of their traditional attire. While ,Gamosas, a white cloth with red borders, are common in Assam. Men wear it around their necks or on their shoulders during ceremonial occasions, or as a small turban for male Bihu dancers. Similarly in Uttar Pradesh and Bihar Gamcha is known as “Gamchi” which comes in four colours- red , white , off white and pink( on cotton base). If we go South it is known as “Angavastram” which comes in silk and cotton.

In addition to being used during religious offerings, the Gamchas/Gamosas are used to welcome and felicitate guests. Within the Hindu ritual system, they are positioned on the left shoulder during auspicious occasions and on the right shoulder during Shradh rituals.

Since time immemorial, Gamchas were part of our lives, attire and culture. Unfortunately, they lost their popularity in the spree of modernity and urbanization. They were replaced by thicker towels and got restricted to rural villages. It is only recently, that Modi ji has revived it by not only wearing it in most of his speeches and public addresses but he has also used it to unify different states which are connected together with a piece of cloth.

When he wore the traditional ” Manipuri Lengyan” he created a wave of “Modi Gamcha” which soon became a status symbol. People started demanding Gamcha which created more employment opportunities for these weavers. Its production increased noticeably since Modi ji publicized it. Assam, Bihar, and West Bengal have seen an emergence of numerous brands .

Modi ji not only wore it but even gifted the northeastern stoles and to foreign delegates and used it to it as a part of his diplomacy. This act not only piqued the interest of the urban masses but also created a sense of belongingness in them. He also created an awareness about our heritage and handloom at an international level by publicizing it as sustainable fashion.

With the growing popularity of Gamcha, there are now numerous opportunities to enhance its production in terms of color, pattern, and fabric quality. Investments should be made in it’s designing for a more diversified use. As it is not only eco friendly but it also empowers the weavers who are mostly women. Government intervention is required to protect these artisans from the intense competition posed by machine made textiles. As initiated by our Prime Minister, let’s reclaim our cultural attire by breaking free from colonial perceptions associated with “Gamcha”. For with right support, Gamcha in Fashion industry can be the next -blue jeans!





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